Journey to Ninh Binh

Our day trips are fast and furious, often hours spent on the bus for a short time in the destination, and then hop back on the bus and speed off home.

We did that yesterday (Friday, July 22) but every bit of it seemed that much worthwhile.

The first leg of our trip (after lunch), took us to Trang An for a boat ride. But not just any boat ride! Four to a craft, with a local driver (who occasionally used her feet!), we zipped along the practically crystal-clear water, through a mountain pass (once islands in a prehistoric ocean, now considered Halong Bay on land), to a cave system in the same hills.

Low hanging walls and stalactites forced us to sit low on our already low boat, but what a spectacular experience! Cool air, dripping walls, the occasional bat, the dark caressed us as we slipped by in silent awe.

Following that extraordinary experience, we hopped down the road a piece to Hoa Lu, the site of the capital city from 968-1009 (before it moved to Ha Noi). The region was a natural castle, mountains formed protective walls and the river created a moat. The kings are buried nearby, and temples were erected in their honor along the grounds. Vast open areas are ringed by gorgeous gardens, full of regional flowers.

Our final stop on an already packed day was the impressive Phat Diem Cathedral. A French Jesuit priest preached in the region in the 1600s and two hundred years later, a Vietnamese priest (Tran Luc) had this stone church constructed in a melding of Asian and European styles. And with the setting sun behind it, our day ended in quite the spectacular sensation.

--Maureen

Going to the chapel...

We were lucky enough to be invited to a local wedding. Talk about cultural immersion! All of our wedding expectations were hit by culture shock: yes, the bride wore white (but a traditional Vietnamese outfit), and they exchanged rings but not the way we know it.

The ceremony was held in the groom's family home, all decked out in red decorations and flowers. We sat at a long table among many, and were served the local tea as we waited for the happy couple to arrive. (The groom and a few friends went to pick up the bride and bring her to the house as is the custom.)

The ceremony begins with a representative from each family giving a speech, as the families come together. The bride and groom then go up to the alter of his ancestors to ask for blessings and for the bride to be welcomed into the family.

And while they were in that part of the house, we were entertained by folk singers, and singers who were friends of the family. The living room and dining room, and outside patio were full of friends and family as the music filled the house.

The tea kept coming, and there were sweets on the table to help celebrate the day.

They came back to the main area and exchanged rings; there were a few more speeches -- from honored friends, and the groom's father -- and then we were invited to dinner at a local restaurant.

We were all excited to get to what we considered the reception. The tables were set and even the windows were decorated for the occasion. The groom's father gave a nice general toast, and the couple went table to table thanking guests and making toasts with each group. And then the toasts kept coming: everyone went around wishing them the best, joining with people at each table. It was a fun, raucous affair!

And that was it, just dinner. All of us geared up for some dancing were... well, we weren't disappointed at all. We were just pleased to have been a part of this special, eye-opening occasion.

Motorbike Culture

Fazila and I are big fans of the British TV car show "Top Gear" and a while ago they filmed an episode in Viet Nam, so we had some idea what to look for along the roads. The show's hosts were challenged to ride motorbikes on the varied and twisting roads from south to north, along the coast, through the cities and over the mountains, and as with all their challenges, havoc (and fun) ensues. As we've traveled, we've seen things that remind us of that show but I don't think that prepared us for what we would experience (even from inside a bus).

On the roads, there seems to be general rules that they are following and yet there is also a sense of every man for himself out there. Everyone has somewhere to go and they are going to get there! Getting out of the way is up to you!
What's fun to watch for are the goods being transported on the backs of the bikes. We've seen entire families (2 parents, 2 kids), computer monitors (five at a time), cartons of eggs, crates of beer, panes of glass, lumber, chickens and even small pigs. It's odd and fun for us, but hey, it works for them.

Hen gap lai!

Maureen

Where the water buffalo roam

The agricultural state of being is evident along the roadways. Rice paddies are "curbside;" cows, chickens, goats and water buffalo have the right of way.

Viet Nam's population puts it in the top 20 world-wide but its population density is higher because of its small area/size. The country is about 65% mountains and jungles, with that 35% holding the large urban population (over 9 million at last count). There's elbow room to be had, just don't try to pass a herd of water buffalo on the road.

Ethnic Minorities

One of the things with which I've been most fascinated while we study in and around Viet Nam is their celebration of the 54 ethnic minorities around the country. Each group maintains their unique cultures and identities; the country strongly believe in "unity in diversity." As far back as their recorded history, they have had many groups of people from many different places come through their lands bringing in new ideas and activities. Each region of Viet Nam, north (bac), central (trung) and south (nam), has a multitude of cultural identities and yet they all identify as people of Viet Nam.

Ho Chi Minh was instrumental in keeping the diversity of the country following the defeat of the French (and the Japanese) following World War II. The statue in the photo shows Ho Chi Minh holding three children representing the three different regions of the country. The relief behind the statue showcases the unique aspects of the many ethnic groups.

The oneness of the Vietnamese cultural identity was driven home during our Hanoi (i)xich lo (/i) (pedicab) ride. Riding along, just looking at everything around me, I caught sight of a globe off to the left. I took a picture going toward it, but also grabbed the main side of it. With the viewing of that, my driver tapped me on my shoulder and said, "Number 1!" They are a proud people.

Tam biet!

Maureen

What we've seen so far

So here a few photos of what we have seen so far. We've taken in the culture a little bit, had a few lectures and have been trying our best to learn Vietnamese.

First, a map of Vietnam and our beginner book: 


Second, the Vietnamese alphabet:

 

Third: Some of my notes from language class. It is quite difficult to keep up

Finally, today, one Professor provided us with a great gift. It may have 5000 Dong inside, it may have
10, 000.:

 

-S.October

Greetings from Hanoi, Vietnam

Greetings from Hanoi, the cultural, economic, and political center of Vietnam.

Observing Rice Fields of Vietnam.

Meeting with local farmers and observing rice fields on our way back to Hanoi last Sunday.

Thai Nguyen & Ha Noi